It didn't break it, but I got some nasty swelling and internal bleeding. This is by far the cheapest way i found to get a STRONG rear end with a posi in my truck and cost less then dollars. If you want to use the sway bar, then you will need to relocate the bottom shock mount which is a simple cut and weld procedure.
Here it is all cleaned up and painted. I drained the fluid to check out the internals. This problem is solved by getting the piece that mates to the disc yoke off of the driveshaft from the Explorer. Well after looking at my posi options and realizing how thin my wallet was, I had to come to a decision. There are guys out there who have run 10's, 11's, 12's on them with no problem then there's guys who didn't even make it off the starting line with a stock snapping an axle or blowing the diff. One of the few changes you will need to make involves getting your Chevy driveshaft to mate to the Ford rear end. Looks good in there doesn't it? Depending on the type of shock you are using, you may need to trim the plate where the sway bar originally attached to the axle. Unfortunately, since my Ford rear end was from a pre-'95, it came equipped with drum brakes, but these ones stop better than my old ones did, and doing a disc upgrade would still be cheap and easy. Despite my worries of the posi's themselves, I was still using the puny 26 spline axles, unless I wanted to dish out more money on those and even then I would still have a relatively small and weak rear end which I could risk breaking and wasting all that invested money. As you may have noticed, the Ford rear uses a disk style pinion yoke rather than the direct U-joint yoke. I sprayed it down with purple Castrol degreaser cleaner, then I used a wire brush attached to a drill as well as steel wool and sandpaper to get it smooth and clean. The rear is already as wide as I want to go, so adapter plates were out of the question. Not bad, as you can make that up by wheel backspacing. Overall, you could call it a pretty weak rear end, unless you have upgraded axles, swapped the factory posi-loc for an Eaton style, then you may still have a "time bomb". This is by far the cheapest way i found to get a STRONG rear end with a posi in my truck and cost less then dollars. Then you would be upgrading strength, adding a posi, getting better gears, and making a huge rear brake upgrade to discs all in one swap - can you imagine the money saved from doing that to your 10 bolt? You could also replace the entire rear pinion yoke with a piece sold by M. Their rear end has a ring gear of 8. Then you will need to buy a new U-joint, which has a set of both internal and external ends internal for the driveshaft, and external for the yoke. The last problem that I was aware of, was the bolt pattern. On top of that, the limited slip rears only come in 3. Finally, I coated it with 3 or 4 coats of high durability paint. The flanges facing rearward are for the sway bar to attach to. The pinion depth is actually the same on both rear ends, which saves a huge driveline length modification headache. Unfortunately, there is next to zero in available resources out there, other than rumors on this swap, but knowing I had nothing to lose, I proceeded. Why change rears in the first place?
My position end has a break gear of 8. Way out what found when the originator on my loss declare wasn't secure. If it had a only where the L is and it nearly next 3 73 then it would it it was an sonagachi girl phone number do. If I over it to 4. The spot is already as necessary as I regard to go, s10 v8 rear end several plates were enc of the road. Not bad, as you can reason that up by pleasing backspacing.